The Last Stand: Portland's Chinatown Restaurants Fight for Survival
In the heart of Portland's Chinatown, two restaurants stand as the last remnants of a once-thriving culinary scene. The Republic Cafe, Portland's oldest Chinese restaurant, and Golden Horse Seafood Restaurant, the last Cantonese lunch spot in the neighborhood, are fighting for survival. These eateries, once bustling with local politicians and celebrities, now struggle to attract customers, with the pandemic years proving particularly devastating.
'The Pandemic's Impact'
The pandemic years were a turning point for these restaurants. The combination of COVID and Oregon's short-lived experiment with decriminalizing small amounts of drugs created a challenging environment for the neighborhood. While things have improved, customers have been slow to return, leaving these restaurants struggling to recover.
'A History of Resilience'
The Republic Cafe, owned by Sue Mui and her husband for about 30 years, has a rich history. It was once a hotspot for celebrities like Tommy Dorsey, Louis Armstrong, and Harry Belafonte. However, the pandemic forced the restaurant to shift to evening-only service, and the fear of crime in the area has further impacted its business.
Golden Horse Seafood Restaurant, on the other hand, has been a staple for Sophy Li and her family since 1998. Li, who immigrated to Portland from China, has spent most of her adult life working at the restaurant. Despite the challenges, she remains committed to keeping the business afloat, even as she worries about the future.
'A Community Effort'
Efforts to revive the Chinatown area have been underway, with various city programs providing assistance to restaurants like Golden Horse. A large mural by artist Alex Chin, funded by city grants, has been added to the exterior, along with interior upgrades and vandalism repairs. The Old Town Community Association has also played a significant role in building-improvement projects, aiming to create a vibrant arts scene and attract customers back to the area.
'The Future of Chinatown'
While the restaurants struggle to recover, there is hope for the future of Chinatown. Peter Yue, a Portland design consultant and art director, envisions a 'Chinatown 2.0' as an AAPI business incubator with a vibrant arts scene. He believes that art and creativity can push the neighborhood through its challenges and attract a new generation of customers.
'A Beacon of Hope'
The Republic Cafe, with its iconic neon sign, is a symbol of resilience and hope. While the sign has suffered vandalism during the pandemic, efforts are underway to restore it. A $19,000 grant has been approved to add an awning, which will help reduce vandalism and create a more welcoming atmosphere.
