Why This Indie Brand Is Returning to Stage a Show at Milan Fashion Week
MILAN (https://wwd.com/tag/milan-2/) —In a challenging era for established brands and luxury players grappling with consumption slump and retail havoc, this is particularly true for indie labels and emerging talents striving to carve out a space in the fashion landscape.
While some are making strategic and cost-saving decisions, optimizing productions, editing collections, or skipping presentations, Italian indie brand Lessico Familiare is taking a bold leap. They are returning to the runway for a show during Milan Men's Fashion Week, marking a significant shift from their previous events and ironic happenings.
The brand, known for its sustainable ethos and quirky aesthetic, has always been a bit of an outsider in the fashion world. Now, they are embracing a more traditional format with a show titled "New Age." This title is not just a reference to a new chapter in the brand's journey, but also a nod to pop star Madonna's iconic era, 'Ray of Light.'
Riccardo Scaburri, one of the founders, explains, "I saw a meme that read: 'I'm chasing what Madonna was feeling in that moment.'" The title is a direct reference to the metropolitan spiritualism of the late '90s and early 2000s, as embodied and sung by Madonna in 'Ray of Light.' It also evokes the true New Age of the '70s, escapism, and the stereotypical spirituality of today. It's an ironic reflection on our recent healing processes and daily rebranding, yet it opens up a future dimension."
The founders wanted to create a short, impactful show, "a flash, an instant that isn't necessarily comprehensible. A wave of energy." This is why they chose to return to the runway, as a short-lived show can leave a lasting impression.
The venue, Istituto Marangoni's new campus at the historic Palazzo Turati, symbolizes the education of designers, tailors, and creatives. The courtyard, open to the street, represents the birthplace of revolutions.
Lessico Familiare's events are known for their unexpectedness, from tongue-in-cheek dinners to fancy breakfasts. Their presentations have been a mix of the absurd and the whimsical, always pushing boundaries.
The upcoming show will feature friends and muses of the founders, showcasing a collection that filters pop culture through the brand's unique lens. Influences range from Marta Marzotto in a caftan everywhere to a reimagined 'Orlando' with a Stanley Cup instead of a sword, all inspired by Madonna.
The collection will explore slimmer proportions while staying true to the brand's froufrou nature and costume-like lexicon, featuring bows, ruffles, flounces, cocoon shapes, and patchwork. Lightweight knitwear, raw-edge brocades, stiff satin, dark sequins, 3D textural manipulations, and exposed wadding will also be part of the design.
Scaburri emphasizes, "Lessico is a bit like a dictionary, changing but recognizable. We've been told to change key elements, but we haven't, and that's fine. It grows organically, aware of the industry but not following it."
The brand's approach to the format is always a guerrilla show, without too many complications, including seating arrangements. This sense of unexpectedness has been a hallmark of their presentations.
Lessico Familiare made its Milan Fashion Week debut in June 2022 with a bridal-inspired collection paraded in the city's streets, followed by the co-ed 'Cocktail' range unveiled at Fondazione Sozzani in Milan.
The brand has evolved in terms of distribution, gaining visibility through Dover Street Market in Paris and a few retailers in Japan. They have collaborated with a showroom, Tora Tora, and created unique pieces for various stores.
With funding from the 2025 Camera Moda Fashion Trust grant, Lessico Familiare plans to share its vocabulary with a broader audience through further events. Scaburri believes, "Digital, online, and websites aren't our options. The magic happens in the conversation."
Despite the challenges of maintaining their space, rent, and bills, Scaburri highlights the freedom of doing what they love without external pressures as a pro. They navigate without ultimate goals, focusing on what they don't want and achieving spontaneous successes.
A recent collaboration with director Carolina Cavalli on costumes for her movie, 'The Kidnapping of Arabella,' showcases their willingness to explore different dimensions, as Scaburri concludes, "We'd like to continue collaborating with film because it takes you to a different dimension every time and forces you to turn off your phone."
